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Corn in the U.S.A.

By:   Carl Hanson

Corn: an American original.

Corn emerged as perhaps the New World's greatest, most generous crop thanks to the mindful care and guiding hands of pre-Columbian Mesoamericans.

Through human manipulation, the ear grew over time from about the size of the pinkie finger to the size of a forearm. Highly versatile, corn was life-sustaining. It could be eaten fresh or dried, ground and stored for later use; the stalks could feed livestock. Native Americans taught the pilgrims to plant corn, which sustained them during the hard first years in the New World.




A-Maize-ing Grain

We think of corn as a vegetable. But the corn plant (zea mays) is actually a grass; the kernels on the cob, a grain. In fact, corn gets its name from an English word for grain--for any grain, actually, even salt grains (which explains "corned beef"). The stunning success of zea mays in early colonial America so overshadowed other grains that it quickly became known by this all-inclusive English term for grain--corn--as though it were the only grain in the world.  The English still refer to it as "maize."


Symbol of Summer

Corn is at its peak from May through September. Unlike some fruits and vegetables that ripen and improve with time off the plant, corn always tastes best freshly plucked from the stalk. Though corn is now bred to stay sweet longer, the sugars in corn will begin to break down and turn to starch immediately after being picked. This is why roadside farm stands usually have the best corn!


    How to Choose Your Corn

    Look for ears that have some heft for their size; good weight can mean the center hasn't been eaten away by bugs or fungus. Look for moist, bright green husks clutching tightly to the ear and healthy (not dry) silk protruding at the top. To check out the condition of the kernels, don't yank down the husks--it dries out the corn and leaves it susceptible to fungus (and annoys the grocer or farmer); instead, feel around the silk end to make sure the kernels are plump and healthy all the way to the tip.


    Corn's Flavor Companions

    Grown to be sweet and tender, fresh corn is a tremendous flavor-pairing partner. Its original flavor companions remain some of the best: chile peppers, beans and tomatoes. To this list, we can add butter, cheese, limes, cream, and fresh herbs. Fresh corn can be added to soups, stews, salsas, salads, breads, pancakes and puddings.


    Children of the Corn

    When treated with lye, which removes the skin around the kernels, corn becomes hominy. Dried and ground, hominy becomes grits. Cornmeal is coarsely ground corn, which is used in polenta. Cornstarch, a more finely ground meal, thickens sauces, stews and gravies. Corn flour, or masa, is made into tortillas, chips and taco shells.

     
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